Cosmoprof 2019 closed its three-day annual show at The Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas on Tuesday, July 30, marking a new vision to the 17th edition of the expo that this year curtailed its partnerships with micro-influencers and trend spotters, and instead focused on elevating its positioning among beauty’s prestige players. Cosmoprof’s newly-minted Director of Marketing, Liza Rapay, can now claim one completed show under her belt, and is thrilled with the outcome.

“It exceeded our expectations—from the exhibitors to the quality of the visitors, we couldn’t have put on a better show.  The most rewarding of all was receiving notes from attendees and exhibitors alike thanking us and letting us know that they are looking forward to next year,” Liza said.

She did note that next year’s Cosmoprof is scheduled for midweek, beginning Tuesday, June 30, and commencing Thursday, July 2, a departure from the show’s consistent weekend kickoff but reflecting its sister events held in Bologna and Hong Kong.

This year’s edition attracted more than 40,000 visitors and 1,435 exhibitors representing 43 countries.  The show floor covered 312,638 square feet of space, up 3% from 2018.

Some highlights included the introduction of Cosmopack North America, an area dedicated to the entire supply chain of the cosmetics industry, including contract manufacturing and private label, machinery, primary and secondary packaging, applicators, ingredients and raw materials. It’s also where the actual machinery responsible for creating and developing product was presented. Another first was the organization of the show floor into three distinct sections, an area for professional exhibitors, one for retail lines and one for packaging. Exhibitors and attendees were able to connect with leading trend and marketing intelligence agencies in the new Trends Corner, where they could connect with trend and marketing intelligence agencies including Euromonitor International, Kline & Company, The Benchmarking Company, The NPD Group and WGSN. Outlining the show’s overall trends was a report produced by trend forecasting agency, Beautystreams, and presented in an area outside the show floor called CosmoTrends. Here, attendees got an at-a-glance look at the four biggest trends impacting the beauty space: Going Zero Waste; Smart Adaptogens; Viva Vegan and Blue-Green Algae.

Liza said of this year’s special initiatives:  “The launch of Cosmopack was a huge success.  Our CosmoTalks attendance was record-breaking.  The installation of CosmoTrends was well-visited, and we added another session of the CosmoTalks presentation due to the high demand.  We’ve surpassed last year’s Boutique program, selling out most of the products by the beginning of Day 2.  On Sunday evening, the Happy Hour featuring the Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Awards ceremony was well-attended, and everyone enjoyed the opportunity to get-together in a festive environment.”

According to Euromonitor’ Senior Analyst Kayla Villena, the number of refillable options seen in CosmoPack lent itself to the Zero Waste packaging trend.

“The push [for sustainable packaging] is coming from the larger brands. Some indie brands have been doing it and the response has been really great. So now larger brands are taking it more seriously and not waiting as long to be seen as the pioneer/early adopter. They’re becoming more upfront about their values,” she said.

Kayla explained that the concept of refillables will first be seen in skin care, then color cosmetics, then bath and body, and finally hair care.

“The premium skin care consumer is pushing for refillables more than any other. Then it will drill down to mass. In hair care, you have the professional brands, where there’s less concern about what’s happening with the bottle, as long hair looks good. The hair care consumer is more mass, or masstige, so sustainability isn’t something that’s getting their attention.”

Removable and refillable cups are popping up, such as ones currently used by Natura. Waterless formulas are being seen, whereby a consumer is sent a powdered version of a mask in a biodegradable pouch, and she creates the product at home by adding water. “Refillable lipsticks bullets are coming, as well as mascara,” Kayla added.

Kayla pointed to the trend taking off in home care by Unilever: the company premiered a refillable pod under its Cif brand that has been well received.

Beauty industry analyst and former Walgreens beauty executive, Marcia Gaynor, offered her opinion on the CBD trend.

“Despite a lot of buzz about CBD, not all brands are ready to jump into the game. Some discussed how they are not yet ready to include it in their products lines. Concerns include whether CBD is safe, especially in regard to where it is being sourced. There is an uneasiness that CBD is just a trend that won’t have lasting power. One brand actually touted the fact they were a natural pain relief lotion without using CBD,” said Marcia.

Lastly, Marcia added, masks have not died down yet.  “Instead it seems that the category is still expanding as everyone is trying to get into it.  Not only were there a multitude of facial masks, but there are masks for all body parts.  There was a  brand whose booth was constantly busy as they were highlighting butt masks.  Not just one, but a variety to choose from.”

That said, a number of fun and new products were uncovered at Cosmoprof. Here were some of the standouts, ranging from natural skin care products with plant-based silicone-replacing technology, to beauty’s first underarm beauty regimen to a case made just for makeup-blending sponges.

 

Blenderelle

While makeup sponges are all the rage, how does one store them in their vanity and cosmetic bag? Enter Blenderelle, The Original Makeup Blender Case, founded by Sam Palmer in 2015, an anti-microbial, ventilated makeup sponge case. “I was using a makeup sponge and there was no good place to store it. So I filed a patent to protect the idea and launched a ventilated swirl closure case,” said Sam, who now has three patents on her product. The case is formulated with silver, which acts as a natural anti-microbial that lasts the lifetime of the product, and is designed with effective ventilation so the sponge can Dry on the Fly after rinsing. Available in pink, black and gold Blenderelle retails for $12. And this year, Sam launched an updated version of the case which now snaps to close, also retailing for $12.

Golden Elixir

June Farahan saw an opportunity to create an oil that would “not only deliver precious ingredients to nurture skin, but fill a gap in the luxury market for such a product.” In February, June launched Golden Elixir, a Phytoactive Face Oil for the face and neck utlizing pure plant extracts and actives to repair, hydrate and regenerate skin. Ingredients include vitamin C, CoQ10 and Collageneer (a trademarked blend that includes turmeric and pepper) in a base of kukui nut, jojoba and rosehip seed oils. In addition to the face oil, Golden Elixir includes three superfood adoptegenic blend powers—Cacao, Mushroom and Golden—each of which addresses a different need. Mushroom aims to release anxiety, Cacao looks to add a boost of energy and Golden fights inflammation. Each requires one teaspoon of powder to be added to 8-oz of warm nut milk or water.  This magical blend of adaptogenic mushrooms is the perfect remedy to ease anxiety. When you need to soothe your senses and deal with the stresses of daily life reach for The Golden Elixir Powerhouse tonic powder.The oil sells for $88; the powders range from $44 to $48.Cacao Adaptogenic BlendCacao Adaptogenic BlendCacao Adaptogenic Blend

Mineralgia

This FDA-approved pain relief cream was founded by LA-based chiropractor, Dr. Bridgette Rozenberg, to target ailments ranging from back pain to sore muscles to arthritis. Brigitte operates a thriving wellness practice and specializes in bringing patients back to optimal health and well-being following accidents and injuries. She developed the cream more than 10 years ago, according to Gabriel Snapir, Director of Sales, which became an effective tool in her arsenal of treatments for pain. “I wanted to develop a completely safe, natural pain relief that would work in my practice. The result is Mineralgia, a product that is so gentle I can use it on my kids who are into sports,” said Bridgette. Gabriel added that now is the prime time to bring the product to retail as the beauty industry is leaning into wellness-focused lifestyles. The cream, Gabriel explained, is paraben free and vegan, and uses Dead Sea minerals, in addition to camphor, menthol and arnica to target sore spots. In preparation for the move to retail, Mineralgia repackaged in January. Mineralgia retails for $34.95.

Sonage

This natural, non-toxic skin care line uses carefully-curated luxury ingredients and clean performance-driven formulas for its four collections for the face, designed to Revitalize, Hydrate, Soothe and Renew. Each collection targets a different skin problem, and in turn offers an array of products to deliver a solution. One standout is the Glow to Go Glycolic Acid Peel Pads within Renew, which Sujata Bahri, the company’s COO, said uses a signature polymerized formula, and is infused with glucosamine and lavender oil. Thirty pads retail for $30. Launching at Cosmoprof is Sonage’s C-Shield Smart Serum, which utilizes technology that protects skin from blue light rays, which breaks down collagen.

Little Green

Founded by spa and salon innovator, Carmen DePasquale, Little Green came to be as the concerned grandfather saw his grandkids struggle with allergies and skin conditions. That said, according to Kristen McLaughlin, the brand’s Director of Marketing, “Little Green formulas are hypoallergenic and clinically tested, and free from sulfates, parabens and gluten.” Formulas utilize aloe, oat extract, licorice root, vitamin B5, vitamin E and avocado oil. The line consists of 13 items, including shampoo, conditioner and styling products. There’s also some specialty items, such as a Soothing Balm, “which is formulated with beeswax and jojoba, along with avocado oil and evening primrose to be used on everything from chapped lips, cheeks and dry patches,” said Kristen. Products retail from $4.95 to $12.

Skin Buzz

Skin care companies are targeting kids with natural and safe products early on, and Skin Buzz is at the top of the list. Positioned as organic skin care for every age, the brand, created by an aesthetician and mom, includes five items that “look to provide a natural solution to skin facing clogged pores and acne. Harsh acne skin care products are too strong for young, delicate skin. I used my experience as an acne specialist to pick only the safest organic ingredients that are also safe for our tweens and teens,” said founder Nicole Sullivan. Formulas use ingredients such as witch hazel, royal jelly, propolis, beeswax and charcoal. Items include a Clean Bee Cleanser, Bee Witched Tone, Bee You Tiful Moisturizer, Bee Safe Mineral Sunscreen and Coal Bee Charcoal Mask. Products sell for between $19 and $38.

Urang

This Korean beauty brand isn’t positioned as a fast K-Beauty skin care option but rather a line steeped in wellness that uses natural and organic ingredients for sensitive skin. Launched in December 2016, Urang, which means “you with,” was founded by Jina Lee, a mom and holistic aromatherapist desperate to find products that suited her atopic, allergy prone skin. She set about creating unique formulas and dived into studying cosmetic ingredients, chemistry and fragrances. Urang consists of 13 items, some of which are quite unique. Take their Urang Love Rose x Hibiscus and Urang Love Cica x Opuntia Masks, “both of which utilize a unique two-pouch system that preserves the freshness of the liquid essence to be combined with the 100 percent organic cotton mask,” said Jina. The Rose x Hibiscus Mask targets brightening and hydrating, while the Love Cica x Opuntia Mask looks to soothe and hydrate with organic centella asiatic and Korean prickly pear cactus. Each mask retails for $8.

Sway

First it was feet. Then it was the V area. Now it seems armpits are the body part du’jour for manufacturers to obsess about—and ultimately beautify. Enter Sway, a natural deodorant line that introduces “regimen” to the category with the segment’s first complete underarm care solution. Users start with Underarm Detox Masque, a super-charged charcoal mask powered by activated charcoal, bentonite clay, jojoba oil and raw organic apple cider vinegar to purify underarms and transition pits to “pull out toxins from the skin and preps it for a more natural experience,” said Rebecca So, Founder and CEO of Sway. The masque is meant to be applied before showering, then washed off. Once dry, an organic apple cider vinegar-infused natural deodorant is rolled on, which looks to fight body odor by detoxing underarms. There are five versions: Geranium, which blends geranium and lavender essential oils; Vanilla, a blend of sweet vanilla and lavender; Detox, a blend of lavender and lemon; Serenity, a blend of lemon and lavender; and Timber, which blends West Indian Sandalwood and Clary Sage essential oils for woodsy scent.  Finally, a Dusting Powder, made from arrowroot powder and baking soda, is introduced to “set” and mattify deodorant and ensure no transfer occurs from pit to clothing. Formulas are 100% natural and free of aluminum, parabens and artificial fragrance and look to provide long-lasting odor protection without leaving any residue. Deodorants are sold with a Dusting Powder for $17; the Masque retails for $22.

Ayr Skin Care

This luxe skin care line is a family-owned and operated business that’s special in that “it utilizes a patent-pending silicone-replacing technology, incorporating a blend of plant-based ingredients to create a silky texture for creams and serums,” said Fiona Briggs, VP of Marketing and Operations. Founded by Kirsten Thomas in a quest to create a product that would work for her sensitive skin, Ayr is run by her daughter, Fiona, with self-taught Kirsten in the lab overseeing batch production. Her husband, a successful contractor, fully-funds the business. Ayr consists of 12 items with a focus on face care. The line, which launched in 2017, recently repackaged with sleek teal and white containers, and is manufactured in its own facility in California. One of the most interesting items in Ayr is its new Awaken Revitalizing Eye Serum, a vegan formula which incorporates vitamins C, E and B5 to counteract the effects of diminishing sodium hyaluronate levels, along with a natural blend of probiotics, green tea, pomegranate and antioxidant-rich caffeine. It retails for $65.

Crayola Beauty

One of the most beautiful color cosmetics line to debut at Cosmoprof was Crayola Beauty by Crea Cosmetics. Michelle Pinedo, Project Manager for the Crayola Beauty line, said items are formulated with natural, vegan ingredients all made in Italy. While the brand’s heritage connects with children, the collection targets adults and aims to deliver an elevated beauty experience. “We have been very careful with the ingredients because of our brand heritage. We are working with luxe manufactures who make premium brands. And, all products have been made to be used and applied with your fingers,” said Michelle. There are roughly 60 color items (no foundation) with the hero item being its Face Crayon. The all-vegan line is priced from $15 to $40 for highlighters, mascaras, palettes, and the aforementioned Face Crayon, which can be used on eyes, lips and cheeks. Packaging is nostalgic, resembling Crayola’s yellow and green boxes.

Hemp Beauty

CBD products were sprinkled throughout Cosmoprof with one of the brightest lights coming from Hemp Beauty. Founded in 2018 by CEO Lindsay Solomon, Hemp Beauty includes three different lines, one for Wellness, one for Skin Care and one for Body. The CBD used in the products are sourced from Colorado and Kentucky; products bear QR codes that when scanned reveal each item’s Certification of Authorization, batch numbers and testing information.  One of Solomon’s most popular items is the Good Vibes Relief Roller, $50, which has a metal tip “that cools skin to the touch and eases muscle tension to the neck or sore muscles with a combination of fast-acting CBD, magnesium and lavender.”