From left: HCT’s metal tip applicators with pump tops; Northwest Cosmetics Labs’ Shadow Stick, Bouncing Eye Gels; Oxygen Development’s Metallic Eyeshadows; Ancorotti’s layered lip balm; Ancorotti’s Lash Polish; ICC’s gel polish; Oxygen Development’s Tropical Glam Shimmer; Schwan’s bright eyeliners)

MakeUp in New York has again attracted the beauty industry’s key cosmetic contract manufacturers to its annual event in Manhattan, this year accented by several exhibits including an historical presentation of iconic makeup objects, show girl-worthy makeup applications and nine panels and roundtables.

Show manager Sandra Maguarian said this year’s event—its fourth—attracted twice as many exhibitors as last year, topping out at 65 companies. Attendees to the 548 West 22nd Street event held September 25-26, included top brass from Sephora, MAC, Estée Lauder, Physician’s Formula, Stila, MAC, Urban Decay and L’Oréal, and many others.

HCT beauty showcased several new packaging concepts, among them an airtight compact made for either powder formulas (no spillage here), or for liquids (airtight means they’ll stay moist), such as BB cream formulas. Metal tip applicators have been a popular delivery system, and New York-based HCT has constructed a pump-top so formulas are delivered through the metal tip, not just with it.

Weckerle showed off several optimized color-with-treatment products for lips. New filling technology now allows for various combinations of pigmented formulas (one allows for a formula to consist of 60% powder for a more powdery finish) along with treatment formulas, and even different shapes of silicone molds so that lining lips is an option with a lipstick.

Ancorotti Cosmetics, perhaps best known for their advanced mascara formulas, had many technologies to brag about. One was a Lash Polish, designed to adhere to mascara which is applied to lash tips, typically in bright colors such as green, pink and silver. Lash Polish resembles a nail polish bottle and even works on false lashes. For lips, there was a Lip Primer, a silicone free formula formulated to give a lifting and plumping effect to lips. Italy-based Ancorotti also showcased a lip balm that allows for three different formulas featured horizontally, an eyeliner with a super thin dual colored tip and a spray-on foundation complete with an applicator mitt.

Oxygen Development of Palm Springs, Florida showed many innovations in lip and eye. Marketing executive Musa Dias of Oxygen, said lip is seeing a big comeback. She pointed to the company’s primers, designed to fill in lines and smooth inconsistencies; a Gel Lipstick, which is free of wax and delivers a powdery finish; and Lip Veneer, a lip gloss that applies like a lipstick “with bouncy texture in a solid format.” For eyes, there was Hydra Shadow Pencil, a soft, smooth, water-based shadow infused with moisturizing agents to promote hydration. There was also a Metallic Eyeshadow powder designed to feel like a cream and formulated with naturally occurring metallic pigments for high impact coverage and a creaseless finish.

Off the beaten path was Oxygen’s Tropical Glam Shimmer, a shimmer dust that’s misted onto skin, complete with a Caribbean-like scent.

Poland-based Joko offered up baked eye shadows infused with glycerine, lipstick made with 10% water and water-based Jelly Shadows, which were long wearing, deeply pigmented formulas; a Slimline Stick Shadow, a shadow that can be glided on light or heavy for varying payoff; and Matte Shadow, a quick drying liquid matte formula.

Northwest Cosmetics Labs, hailing from Idaho, was showing a Bouncing Eye Gloss, a long lasting, no-crease light reflective formula; a Slimline Stick Shadow, as shadow that can be glided on light or heavy for varying payoff; and Matte Shadow, a quick drying liquid matte formula.

Italian firm ICC showed newness in nail with a long lasting gel polish (the more viscous formula lasts for seven days and provides high shine like a gel) that works without a UV lamp.

B. Kolor Makeup, which specializes in skin and makeup innovations, showed a 98% organic silicone free foundation, called Eden Foundation, made from fruit extracts and cherry water. The Italy-based company also had a Mattifying Stick, to be applied to the T-Zone over makeup; a Setting Spray, a mister applied over makeup and infused with skin care benefits; and a SPF Broad Spectrum Lipstick.

Schwan discussed several different trends they detect for 2014, including Mathemathics, one that yielded numerous widths of sharp-tipped eye and lip pencils, each with the goal of delivering exact designs. One pencil even had a sharpener built into its twist-off cap, so every time one opens the pencil the tip gets a sharpening. Another trend is Intensity, which shows brightly colored, flashy hues for lips and eyes. Mystic showcased darker shades in purples and blues; Illusion, inspired by the filters offered on Instagram, offers touches of color in soft hues.

MakeUp in Paris is the company’s next event, taking place June 12-13, 2014. The next MakeUp in New York show is slated for September 23 and 24.