Cosmoprof North America rang in its 10th anniversary in Las Vegas this past weekend, with more than 25,000 distributors, manufacturers and spa and salon owners passing through the Mandalay Bay Convention Center July 22-July 24. The professional beauty show, featuring the latest in spa and salon products, drew 856 exhibitors, 9% more than last year, “with a much more prominent attendee list from outside the U.S.,” said the show’s marketing director, Daniela Ciocan. Key trends seen at Cosmoprof include a zillion different nail offerings—from textured nail formulas to mood changing shades to at-home gel options—as well as DIY smart phone skin analysis technology and next generation hair smoothing treatments, minus the formaldehyde.
*DIY skin analysis lens shows lots of brand potential: One of the most talked about exhibitors at the show was Beautécam, a lens that attaches to a smart phone camera, takes a picture of your skin and analyzes it. The other components offered by Beautécam, which is based in Kyoto, Japan, are the social media and branding options with the lens. For example, a brand can market the skin analysis component by recommending its own products as a solution to any detected skin problems. Kaori Nagao of Beautécam said at least one global beauty firm is exploring buying the technology, and that Toyota is considering using the lens to target women for the launch of a new UV shield on 2013 car windows. Also popular in skin was Dr. Goldfaden, which is being positioned as a natural derm line, with a product called the Needle-less Line Smoothing Concentrate for wrinkles and fine lines. Also eye catching was EyeSlices, re-usable cooling eye gels. Four different sku’s target different skin care needs.
* White hot temporary tattoo company seeking partners: Violent Lips had a crowd by its booth the entire run of Cosmoprof. The company, which makes temporary glitter lip transfers and is sold in Sephora, is launching Violent Eyes in September, glitter transfers in cat eye shapes. Violent Lips has also launched a mass version, Bella by Violent Lips, named after firm president, Jeff Haddad’s, 15-year-old daughter, Isabella, who actually was the brainchild behind the glitter lip tattoos. Violent Lips was at the show looking for a manufacturing partner as demand has become overwhelming for the small company.
* Hair smoothing remains on trend: Several hair smoothing options stood out from the dozens on offer at Cosmoprof, including Bio Ionic’s Agave Healing Oil Treatment, which uses an amino acid complex-based Carbo-C proprietary formula, designed to last about 12 weeks. Keratin Complex has received OSHA compliance for all of their formulas, said Lisa Loria, director of marketing. And Cadiveu, the South America-based, original maker of Brazilian Blowout (they are no longer partners) was launching its latest version of a smoothing treatment, SupraLiss, which the firm said is “free of all aldehydes.” SupraLiss “is more technical, needs more time than the original and last longer and leaves more shine.” INOAR Professional also presented keratin treatments, which have been formulated according to hair type.
* A gel system for home use—with all the bells and whistles: Orly is launching Smart Gels, an at-home gel Starter Kit, to Ulta and Sally Beauty stores July/August. Each Kit includes a nail tip primer, base and top coat, cuticle oil, cleanser, remover and tools; it will sell for $59.50. A Smart LED Lamp (about the size of a cell phone) is sold separately and will retail for $195. Gel nail colors, 12 shades in total, will also ship to stores, and will sell for $9.95 each.
* Mood polish seen as next big thing: Nail polish that changes shade will set the trend for 2013. Orly is launching Shade Shifter, a nail polish topper that when applied over any nail color, changes the shade based on the temperature. So, when it’s cold, nail color turns black; when it’s hot, nail color turns to its original shade; when it’s warm, nails become an ombre shade.
* Unlimited Shades of Everything: Expect a slew of new gel color shades from CND, OPI, China Glaze; and a new color collection from Seche Vite. CND has six new Shellac shades for fall, bringing Shellac’s total shade count to 42. For fall 2012, OPI is partnering with the new James Bond 007 film “Sky Fall” with new shades of gels, lacquers, magnitizers and nail appliques. OPI is also launching an 18K Gold Lacquer Top Coat containing real gold leaf, to sell for $30. China Glaze is launching half a dozen new shade collections for the back half of 2012 including On Safari, New Bohemian and Cirque Du Soleil 3D. The brand is also launching its first ever Real Nail Polish Appliques. Seche Vite, the best-selling Fast Dry Topcoat brand is launching a 33-color collection in September 2013. It will utilize Seche Vite’s fast drying technology and only require one coat for maximum color.
* Barrel irons are the new curling irons: Heating appliances were everywhere at Cosmoprof. Especially popular were barrel irons—curling irons without the clamp—by Amika and Keratin Complex. Barrel irons eliminate the ridge that often forms when using a curling iron. Innovations in flat irons were seen at hairstylist Jose Eber’s booth, with his new glass-plated flat iron, GlassTech, ($149), which utilizes infrared tube lighting to heat the plates. The glass plates are non-porous, unlike ceramic plates, preserving hair moisture and making it safer to eliminate frizz, breakage and cuticle damage, the company said. Jose Eber is also launching a conditioning iron, Therapy Rx Moisture Boosting Tool, which uses high frequency, ultrasonic vibration to break conditioners and oils to molecule size particles to ensure maximum penetration into open hair follicles. It will sell for $199.
* Textured nails were everywhere: Professional offerings by CND and Young Nail allow aestheticians to apply pure pigment in the form of mica powder directly onto nails to deliver brilliant glimmer, sparkle or texture. CND calls their powder Additives, which is shipping now to salons. And, Ciate, the maker of the Caviar Manicure now available at Sephora, is launching the Sequined Manicure, and the Velvet Manicure in four sku’s, in the fourth quarter. For professionals, Ciate is launching the Caviar Manicure Bar, which includes 47 tubes of caviar bead colors. For the mass market, Ciate has created Nail Rock, designer nail wraps.
* Quick fix to thinning hair: Powder hair fillers—to hide bald spots and to fill in where hair thins—were popular at Cosmoprof, namely at FHI, where their Hair Veil applies to the scalp to make hair appear fuller.