This year’s annual meeting of the American Association of Dermatology [AAD], set in Miami, attracted more than 10,000 dermatologists worldwide. Wendy Lewis, president of Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd/Global Aesthetics Consultancy, attended the event, as she has for the past 15 years as one of the beauty industry’s foremost experts on cosmetic surgery and dermatologic innovation. The conference, which serves many capacities, is a launch pad for new skin care products on a global scale, both for dispensing physicians, as well as for physicians who prefer to recommend drugstore brands to their patients. Here, some of the sun care, acne, brightening and peel items Wendy saw at the conference.
 
SUNCARE

Neutrogena® introduced the new Beach DefenseSunscreen ($1.99 to $10.99) line that boasts broad-spectrum protection designed to protect skin from sun and impurities in water by repelling salt and other elements that can damage skin. The spray and lotion are sweat- and water-resistant, oil-free, and come in SPF 30 and SPF 70. There is also a handy 1-ounce travel size. Sister brand Aveeno® introduced its own sun care line that helps to reverse skin dehydration caused by sun, chlorine, sweat, and salt water while offering broad spectrum coverage exceeding FDA standards. The new Aveeno® Protect+ Hydrate™ ($6.49 to $10.49) collection has been shown to reduce water loss by providing 50% more hydration than the leading competitive sunscreen, keeping skin soft, smooth, and healthy-looking. Enviroguard™ technology provides photo-stable, broad-spectrum coverage, while

Active Naturals® Oat works to replenish the skin barrier compromised by dehydration.

 
Valeant Pharmaceuticals’ CeraVe® introduced a new sun care line ($9.99 to $16.99) consisting of eight products for the face and body with various applications offering both broad-spectrum SPF 30 and SPF 50 protection. CeraVe® Sunscreen SPF 50 for Face is a purely physical sunscreen with zinc oxide in a micronized form. The new Invisible Zinc Technology delivers a unique dry, clear finish on the skin. Among the collection there is also a CeraVe SPF 50 Sunscreen for Body featuring Invisible Zinc Technology, CeraVe® Wet Skin Spray SPF 50 that can be applied to wet or dry skin, plus a CeraVe® SPF 50 Sunscreen Stick. All of the products dry to a clear finish, which is a key consumer demand in the sun protection category.

 
Launching later in 2013, ZO® Medical OCLIPSE® -C SPF 50 ($80) is a natural mineral sunscreen formula with a daily multi-defense system and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection for even the most sensitive skin types and is ideal for post-procedure protection. Enriched with fractionated melanin and potent antioxidants, this unique and elegant formula shields skin from high-energy blue/violet light and environmental aggressors that have been shown to induce premature aging.

SUPER CREAM


According to Olay®, Cellular BioEnergetics research has shown age related decreases in skin’s energy levels make aging skin fatigued—aged in appearance and less responsive to anti-aging ingredients. This research also indicates that hydrating skin may help to boost natural bioenergy production in aged skin. To that end, Olay® introduced a new beefed-up version of its signature

Regenerist® Micro-Sculpting Cream ($29.99) that has been reformulated with an Advanced Amino Peptide Complex and Skin Energizing Technology to help accelerate the skin’s response to antiaging ingredients. Olay®’s Skin Energizing Technology contains a complex of ingredients that energizes surface skin turnover and includes two new anti-aging ingredients—Olivem and Lys’lastine. Olivem is a derivative of olive oil, which has been modified to increase the penetration of anti-aging ingredients into the skin’s stratum corneum. The new and improved Regenerist® Micro-Sculpting Cream also contains Lys’lastine, a natural extract of dill seeds.

ACNE RELIEVERS


Envy Medical entered the anti-aging category with its launch of the ClarityMDAcne System. The new ClarityMD™ Acne System ($49.95) consists of the Deep Pore Cleanser and Clarifying Gel in a two-step system that is clinically proven to significantly heal acne within days without dryness, irritation, redness or peeling. The new patent-pending PCXTechnology that features solubilized bakuchiol and bisabolol that work synergistically with salicylic acid to attack acne at its source while helping to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation. In a clinical study, the ClarityMD™ Acne Solution was tested on 25 volunteers that used the Deep Pore Cleanser and Clarifying Gel twice daily over 6 weeks. After 7 days, volunteers enjoyed an average 59% reduction in inflammatory acne lesions and a 14% reduction in non-inflammatory acne lesions. After 6 weeks, 99% of inflammatory and 56% of non-inflammatory acne lesions had been cleared.

From ZO® Medical, two new products joined its range of acne and oily skin solutions. ZO Medical Aknetrol™ ($35) contains 10% benzoyl peroxide to decrease sebum production, antibacterial tea tree oil to calm redness, and glycerin to restore moisture. ZO® Medical Vitascrub™ ($80) is a multifunction foaming scrub that sweeps away dead skin cells, oil, dirt, and impurities using a unique tribetahydroxy acid system combined with a multi-microdermabrasion crystal network.

La Roche-Posay launched Effaclar Mat – Daily Mattifying + Pore-Refining Moisturizer ($31.99). The treatment targets sebum to fight shiny skin and enlarged pores, and goes to the source to help prevent glands from secreting excess sebum. Sebulyse, a sebum-targeting active ingredient more powerful than zinc, enables Effaclar Mat to effectively minimize sebum from the start. In vivo tests have shown that sebulyse significantly diminishes the appearance of pore size (21%) and shine (32%).

BRIGHTEN UP


On the Rx front, one of the most notable launches was the return of Tri- Luma® (Galderma) after a long hiatus. Tri- Luma® (Fluocinolone Acetonide 0.01%, Hydroquinone 4%, Tretinoin 0.05%) is described as the only FDA-approved triple combination topical product for the short-term treatment of moderate to severe melasma.

Tri-Luma® has a lot of competition now in the form on non-hydroquinone alternatives. According to Cheryl Burgess, MD, a dermatologist in Washington, DC, “The ZO Medical Brightenex Correcting Crème contains numerous brightening ingredients such as glutathione, glucosamine, retinol, and ascorbic acid to treat wide range discoloration and uneven skin tone, and has shown promising effects on melasma in all skin types.”

Envy Medical added a new line extension to its expanding Lumixyl® Topical Brightening System portfolio—Lumixyl® Topical Brightening Pads ($59). The pads pack the same strength of the Topical Brightening Crème, Lumixyl®’s star product. The Lumixyl® peptide has been infused into gently exfoliating woven pads along with hydrating hyaluronic acid and soothing aloe, making it a good solution for anyone who has issues with dry skin while using acne medications, retinoids, or postlaser treatment. The Lumixyl® line of products are clinically proven to brighten skin and visibly improve the appearance of mild to moderate hyperpigmentation in eight weeks due to the use of decapeptide-12, a revolutionary peptide technology developed by Stanford University researchers. According to Rebecca Fitzgerald, MD, a Los Angeles-based dermatologist, “The Lumixyl peptide technology has been an effective tool for treating hyperpigmentation in my practice. The Topical Brightening Pads will be a very welcome addition in providing a more healthy, radiant skin tone for our patients.”

A new entry from Photomedex Neova® in the skin-brightening category is Serious Clarity 4X ($49), an advanced serum in an airless pump with four brighteners that target dark spots and discolorations. The key ingredients are Sepiwhite MSH, which inhibits skin cells from producing melanin pigments,

Manganese Tripeptide-1 Complex, another melanin inhibitor, Licorice Root Extract, an anti-inflammatory agent that slows hyperpigmentation and soothes the skin, plus Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, an ascorbic acid-based brightener.

Lytera® ($125) from SkinMedica® is another new skin-brightening product available to physicians. According to Valerie Callender, MD, a dermatologist in Glendale, Maryland, “It is a hydroquinone- and arbutin-free topical cream that contains potent ingredients that affect multiple pathways of melanin production, including retinol, linoleic acid, glabridin, niacinamide, and others. It should be applied twice daily for best results.”

THE PEEL BRIGADE


Introduced by Zein Obagi, MD, the new in-office

ZO® Medical 3-Step Stimulation Peel™ ($480 for six individual peels) treats acne, melasma, sun damage, fine lines, uneven texture, large pores, and dullness by exfoliating the outermost layers of skin and stimulating cellular function in deeper skin layers. In addition, the new ZO® Medical Invisapeel™ ($70) uses a unique process to renew the epidermis without any apparent exfoliation, leaving skin noticeably smoother, firmer, and brighter. Specialized enzymes enhance and accelerate the repair of most epidermal problems (discoloration, flaky skin, and roughness).

Glytone introduced the new Glytone by Enerpeel® BC Peel System (30% Salicylic Acid, Ethyl Linoleate, Triethylcitrate, GT-Peptide-10™, $199 for eight peels) developed for oily, blemish-prone skin on the back and chest. Dispensed through a convenient spray bottle, peel solution application is precise and even with use of an ergonomic roller. Glytone by Enerpeel® peels boast a low pH, strong acidity, and even acid absorption to deliver better exfoliation with less surface trauma to minimize the symptoms of oily, blemish-prone skin on the back and chest. Thekit includes everything the practitioner needs to perform eight peel treatments.

ON THE HORIZON


According to sources at AAD, launching from celebrity hair care brand Living Proof®, is Strateris™, a unique skin reshaping film technology that is tune-able, with multiple potential applications in skin care, as well as cosmetic and medical dermatology. The properties of this occlusive yet breathable film technology include superior barrier protection, smoothing lax skin, durability and enhanced hydration. Sources said this technology was developed by Living Proof® biotech scientists in conjunction withRox Anderson, M.D., a dermatologist at Harvard Medical School in Boston, Barbara Gilchrest M.D. and Bob Langer, DSc. Said one source: “Strateris is an under eye contouring cream made of a bio-matrix that invisibly contracts, pulling the skin under the eyes tighter. This is the new wave of cosmeceuticals with a purpose.”

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