By Faye Brookman and Andrea Nagel

Despite unseasonably frigid temperatures, the second edition of Cosmoprof North America Miami, held in Miami Beach from January 21 to January 23, attracted 899 exhibitors, a 28% increase over 2024. Thirty-eight percent were new to the Cosmoprof North America network since 2021 (post-Covid).

“The powerful collaboration between emerging voices, industry leaders, and suppliers at our event is driving the ongoing growth and transformation of the beauty landscape,” said Liza Rapay, VP, Head of Cosmoprof North America [CPNA], Founder Beauty New York. The latter will kick off October 15 with a beauty industry professional gala, followed by forums, master classes, and consumer-facing events over the balance of the week at New York City’s The Oculus.

Retailers attending Cosmoprof Miami agreed that “the show truly brings out the best in the industry — the energy and vibe from media, brands, suppliers, retailers, everyone is always so engaged,” said Noah Rosenblatt, President of Beautyspace.

The organizers’ quest to attract more Latin American [LATAM] attendees was evident, according to Jeffrey Ten, Head of Strategy and Business Development for Queen Cosmetics, a Latina-owned brand. According to CPNA, LATAM represented nearly half of international participation.

The show seemed livelier this year, according to showgoers. Sydney Wagner, Senior Associate Equity Research, Consumer, Jefferies LLC, said, “I think the floor was more dynamic. The sessions in CosmoTalks were really interesting and great incremental knowledge. In a time where what the beauty consumer is buying and where they’re buying it is really changing, it’s so helpful to get insights from companies like NielsenIQ and Spate.” Wagner added that “the floor was more heavily weighted towards fragrance. When we wrote our note last year on the show, we didn’t even have a category highlighting fragrance trends. But it was a huge chunk of the floor this year.”

Wagner said the fragrance boom not only reflected the market but also the show’s attendees, which largely skew Latin American. “It’s also one of the most evolving and exciting categories. It does really seem, especially with Gen Z, that a lot of makeup spend is shifting to fragrance. What I saw that really stuck out to me was branding being so tied in with mood.”

In addition to fragrance, discussions throughout the show centered on the explosion of TikTok Shop (especially given the media attention it received in the days leading up to the show with headlines blasting the “shutdown” of the platform), now the eighth largest beauty U.S. retailer, according to Iced Media’s Leslie Ann Hall. Other topics on the show floor included Amazon’s growing roster of prestige brands, Walmart’s plans to enhance its assortments, looming fears over tariffs, and yes, the unusually chilly Miami weather. “The show was fabulous other than the weather,” joked Lisa Green, VP, DMM for JCPenney Beauty and Salon.

While cool outside, the exhibitors on the show floor revealed three hot overarching trends: LED technology has reached critical mass, the fragrance boom shows no signs of dispersing, and K-beauty is having a second life.

The Future of LED Shines Bright

While LED technology has been around for decades, these devices have (finally) gained mainstream acceptance thanks to social media exposure, lower prices, the DIY surge, and product enhancements.

Interest in red light therapy grew 79% in 2024 over the year before, according to Glimpse research. The Beauty Tech Group in partnership with Price Waterhouse Cooper predicts at-home beauty device sales will surpass $92 billion by 2028.

“LED is everywhere and for everything,” said Larissa Jensen, SVP, Global Beauty Advisor at Circana, noting that LED devices are expanding out of the facial mask category to target muscle strains and boost hair growth.

Brands exhibiting this trend include:

Metamorphosis: This firm captured showgoers’ interest with its butterfly-shaped device called MorphoGlow, which takes gua sha to the next level by enhancing facial contouring with heat, microcurrents, vibrations, infrared, and red-light therapy. Live demonstrations of red and blue light therapy were presented to showcase Lush Lips, a lip plumper; Magic Moon Eye Evolution, for wrinkle reduction; and Super Star Pimple Patch, which is designed for portable acne solutions.

Faeves by Celeste: Celeste, a Netherlands-based brand known for topical skin care products, has expanded into devices. “We do LED and make it fun,” said Denise van Gulik, CEO of Celeste of its LED cat-shaped facial mask which utilizes red light (for aging), blue light (for acne), and purple light (a combination of the two.) “What really excites people is learning how LED delivers real skin benefits without being invasive. People are looking for innovative skin care solutions that deliver real results, ideally from the comfort of home. That is exactly why light therapy devices are becoming so popular, they offer professional-level results in an easy, accessible way,” she said. Their LED pimple “patch” and LED yoga mat caught the attention of Shark Tank’s Daymond John, who was at the show, said Gulik.

 

Geske: Geske’s been a leader in at-home devices since it entered the U.S. in 2023. The company is going full force in LED technology with products like its Skin Firming Wand. “In 2025, the synergy of red-light therapy and microcurrent technology is redefining at-home skin care, merging LED-driven collagen stimulation with microcurrent’s muscle-toning benefits. We at Geske recognize the growing need for beauty tech at an affordable cost that looks and feels great,” said Taylor Dunston, Sales Director, Americas for Geske. The brand’s Skin Firming Wand combines all of these technologies in one device.

Nicky Clarke: In its second year in the U.S. market, Nicky Clarke demonstrated how infrared rays can also benefit hair with its SS902 Infrared Pro Hair Straightener. The rays heat hair from the inside out, minimizing damage and reducing drying time. The technology also helps to maintain the hair’s moisture balance, seal the hair cuticle, and impart shine, while the 100% titanium plated nano technology removes odor and chemicals from hair.

The Fragrance Frenzy Continues in 2025

Fragrance sales, according to Circana, were the fastest-growing category from January through September 2024, rising 14% in prestige and 2% in mass. Dollar growth is driven by Gen Z, accoridng to NIQ data, and many of the scents at Cosmoprof were positioned to court younger customers. Fragrances were displayed in every nook and cranny of the show floor, from various countries at various price points, supplanting space once devoted to cosmetics. “Fragrance is appearing in other steps of the beauty routine beyond just typical spray perfume. Hair perfume has been a significant trend in the past year. We also saw one brand that created a scented hand cream called a ‘hand perfume,’” noted Jefferies Senior Vice President Ashley Helgans in a report shared with CEW. Karen Young, CEO of The Young Group, noted that the presence of fragrance brands at the show “reflects how well the category is doing,” pointing to Touchland hand sanitizers and Charlotte Tilbury’s expansion into scents as examples.

Dossier: One of the most crowded booths at Cosmoprof Miami was Dossier, the digitally native fragrance brand that hit it big on DTC during the pandemic with Impressions, scent dupes that resonated due to its low prices and fantastic scents. Later on, Dossier struck gold with its original scents, aptly named Originals. Success online afforded entree into Walmart via its Start Beauty Accelerator program. Now, the company is looking to grow its retail footprint. “ We did perfum the hard way, launching during a pandemic and resonating with audieces online,” said Dossier CEO and founder, Sergio Tache. At least one retailer was impressed—no pun intended. “We got to try them, and they were so unique,” said C.O. Bigelow Carolina DelRio, General Manager Beauty. The fragrances, which are developed in France and priced from $29 to $49, drop new items every month.

Scentinvent Technologies: The firm partnered with XJ Beauty, a beauty brand accelerator, to create a collection of alcohol-free, skin-friendly products that blur the lines between fragrance, skin care, and makeup. The lineup includes clear solid sticks, melt/balms, a scent that is infused with shimmer, and a scent serum.

Solinotes: A mood boosting fragrance with the tagline “Spray Feel Good,” NielsenIQ’s Anna Mayo singled out this brand as one with potential for the U.S. market with its “bright packaging” and “fragrances to match your mood.” Scents target energizing, soothing, revitalizing, and harmonizing.

K-Beauty Remains Relevant, Although Slightly Pared Down

Once defined by its complex 10-step routines that captivated beauty a decade ago, K-Beauty is returning, but this time with a pared-down approach. “What were once complex routines are now simplified to three to four steps with skin care lines organized by specific concerns (e.g., anti-aging, hydration),” said Wagner from Jefferies. As a result, Korean beauty brands are back on the scene, and American beauty companies are increasingly incorporating Korean skin care ingredients into their own formulas, as well said one industry supplier.

Mixsoon: Known for its formulas that yield a “glass skin” look, Mixsoon created buzz at the show with its vegan version of snail mucin, made from beans. Introduced to the U.S. market more than a decade ago, snail mucin remains one of the most searched skin care ingredients, according to data firm Spate. The creation of a vegan version has the potential to appeal to a brand new consumer base.

Egongegong: This brand accelerator represented a roster of K-Beauty brands at Cosmoprof Miami, most notably Bring Green. Dressed in Squid Game overalls touting a partnership with Netflix, the Bring Green team discussed its collab with the streaming service that includes a Zinc Teca Blemish Serum and a Dewy Gel Maxi Gloss Watery Tok Tint.

Chasin’ Rabbits: A retail favorite, Chasin’ Rabbits features vegan formulas including a Mindful Bubble Cleanse, a Buttshroom Bum Patch, and a Bunny Line Smoother Eye Cream Roller. The packaging is whimsical and brightly colored to attract Gen Z.

Mixik: Sold in retailers including Urban Outfitters, Amazon, and CVS, Mixik is moving into color cosmetics to augment its skin care range created to appeal to Gen Alpha and Gen Z, namely its Gumball Lips collection of tinted lip products available10 shades for $16 apiece. “We are bringing quality skin care at lower prices for a young audience,” explained Lena Park, Brand Director and cofounder of Mixik Skin.

Other hot takes from the show included…

  • Skin care line Exoceuticals parlayed its expertise in exosomes with the launch of Hydro Healing Lip Balm. Formulas are designed to support skin cell renewal and collagen synthesis, soothing dry, chapped lips while shielding against environmental stressors. Just a tiny bit helps achieve soft, nourished lips and leaves them with a natural glossy finish.
  • Kiima, the sustainable, refillable skin care brand from Montreal, showcased its plastic-free deodorant applicators, suited for both men’s and women’s deodorant formulas. The patented design and sustainability factor makes it ideal for Whole Foods and Sephora, said co-founder Samuel Lemire Dupont.
  • AKT London is riding the wave of natural, full-body deodorants. Created by London’s West End performers who needed to create a second act during the pandemic, said they know about sweating under bright lights. Their line really bring innovation to formulas, which are in cream form, and can be used anywhere on the body, even as a makeup primer. They’re applied with our fingertips and implement a silver roller to help squeeze out formulas form their sustainable tubes.
  • Below the belt care continues to grow, with Beam targeting a body part that doesn’t get much attention. “Our goal is to normalize butt care,” said founder Vanessa Holfert, citing many butt-related issues as opportunities, such as hemorrhoids, acne, and dietary problems tied with the growing use of GLP-1 products. “Seventy percent of people experience some form of butt-related issue.” Beam includes The Hole Mask, a peri-anal sheet mask, and a Hemorrhoid Treatment (sure to stand out on shelves next to Preparation-H).
  • NielsenIQ’s Mayo was intrigued by BodyBoom Skincare’s Skin Dopamine serum collection, one that uses active ingredients such as four hyaluronic acids, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, prebiotics, and phytocollagen in formulas to serve as preventative care against aging.